In the following, we will present several methods, successfully used abroad (and in certain places in Romania too) to prevent damages caused carnivores. We won’t detail every damage prevention method that figures in the relevant literature, instead we will concentrate on those that can be realistically applied in Romania . Apart from these, there are numerous other methods that are still in the experimental phase.
The essence of these methods is that they are non-lethal, even for the carnivores. This is why they can be used even against threatened or legally protected species.
The development of damage prevention methods started only a few decades ago and nowadays the interest showed towards them is ever increasing. This arises from the fact that more and more humans realize the importance of living in harmony with nature.
1. Electric fence:
The electric fence can be successfully used as well for preventing damages caused by bears and wolves, as for preventing damages caused by otters.
It consists of several wires stretched in line with each other, powered with 5 000 – 10 000 V electricity. The electricity comes from a dry cell, a battery or from a network and is converted into a high voltage pulse by an energizer. The wires are used to simply surround the desired area (pasture, shepherd camp, agricultural field, fishpond). The advantage of the electric fence lies in the fact that it can be easily and quickly mounted, later it can be moved (relocated) and it is suitable also for large areas. In the same time, it implies a lower cost than a traditional fence of good quality, used for the same area.
Composition and functioning of electric fences:
1. The fence itself: it consists of wires stretched in line with each other, which conduct the electric pulses. These are mounted on wood, plastic, metal or fiberglass posts using plastic insulators.
2. Energizer: at regular intervals (1-3 seconds), the energizer releases high voltage electric pulses (5 000-10 000 V) into the fence. Current intensity is so low, that the system is totally harmless for the animal (or human) touching the electric wires. Nevertheless, it delivers a very unpleasant and hard-to-forget electric shock.
3. Power source: the system can have various power sources, depending on local conditions: dry cell, battery, network source (plug) or a solar panel, which is best to be combined with a battery.
Mounting and maintenance: depending on local terrain conditions, the posts must be mounted at a distance from each other in a way that the height of the lowest wire will not exceed the recommended height. On even ground, the posts can be at a distance of 8 meters (8.7 yards) from each other. The posts can be home-made, of wood, or you can purchase plastic, fiberglass or metal posts, which have a sharp lower end (usually metallic). These can be easily inserted into the ground.
The negative pole of the energizer must be grounded. A good grounding is essential, and for this you need to insert into the ground at least 3, at least 1 meter long rustproof metal bars, which will be interconnected and also connected to the negative pole of the energizer.
If you have a correct grounding, the bars won’t shock even when touched. In frozen ground or in dry, sandy soil it is difficult to achieve a good grounding. In these cases you need to use more bars, as deep as possible. The energizer’s performance determines the possible length of the wires.
The energizer can be connected in two ways:
1) The positive pole is connected to each wire. To deliver an electric shock, it is enough if the animal touches only one wire. The wires can also be interconnected, you don’t need to be afraid of short-circuiting the fence. It can only be used if you have a good grounding.
2) The positive pole is connected to the first, third and fifth wire, whereas the negative pole to the second and fourth wire. It is recommended to separately ground the negatively charged wires at certain distances.
It can also be used with weaker grounding, the disadvantage is that two neighboring wires cannot touch. If you tie strings, flags to the wires, you have to make sure that these don’t touch the neighboring wire and that they are dielectric. You can reach maximum effect if the animal’s body touches two neighboring wires at once.
The number of wires is optional; it is recommended to use 5 wires against bears and wolves and 2-3 against otters. You can choose the length of the wires taking in consideration the performance of the energizer; the total length can be of several kilometers (as much as 10 kilometers). The lowest wire should be at a height of 20 centimeters from the ground, and the wires should be at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other.
If the biggest threat comes from wolves, the lower wires should be closer to each other and the upper ones further from each other, whereas in the case of bears the wires should be at equal distances from each other.
The fenced domestic animals learn quickly to avoid touching the wires. Most animals avoid them even if at that time the wires are not charged with electric impulses. This is especially true in the case of the docile horses, pigs and dogs. Carnivores also learn their lesson in a short time, but they will attempt again from time to time.
It is important to remember that an electric fence is a psychological barrier rather than a physical one. Scarred animals (or fleeing animals) – wild boar herds, bears – cannot stop in front of it unless they can observe the fence in time. This is why you have to make the fence easily noticeable. You can achieve this by stretching out in line with the wires strips that are wider and noticeable even in the dark (white or shiny), and by hanging on the wires fluttering strings at certain distances. These simple methods allow the approaching animal to notice the fence in time.
It is also important that the area around the electric fence is clean and easily observable by wild animals.
If you use the electric fence to protect sheep, you have to keep in mind that scared sheep, if they are kept in a small enclosure, can break through the fence. You can prevent this by also keeping the traditional sheep enclosure or by using the electric fence to surround a larger area.
Under high voltage lines, it is recommended that you place the wires perpendicular on the high voltage lines (and not in line with them). The electric fence needs a minimum maintenance – this means mainly cutting down from time to time the grass and other vegetation growing under the wires – otherwise the vegetation, by coming in contact with the wires, can short-circuit the system, decreasing the voltage and shortening the lifespan of the battery.
The electric fence must always function, even if at the moment there are no domestic animals inside of it. Otherwise carnivores can learn how to bypass it.
Electric fences can be purchased in Romania too. One dealer is the AGROM-COM in Sângeorgiu de Mures (at a distance of 5 kilometers from the city of Tîrgu Mures).
2. Traditional (conventional) fencing:
A proper fence is the surest damage prevention method in the case of all three carnivore species. It’s expensive if we are talking about fencing large territories. It’s seldom used in the case of sheep flocks, because it is difficult to move.
The pales surrounding the sheepfolds also provide a certain protection. In the case of sheep flocks, fences can be made of wire netting or wood – what must be kept in mind is that fences surrounding sheep must be strong enough so that the animals won’t knock it over. Another important aspect is that fences must be as high as possible (wolves can jump over fences 1.80 m high!). 
Of course, this can rarely be achieved, but the effectiveness of the fence can be raised with an outward bent upper part, a fladry, or by hanging on the fence itself blazing, rustling objects. Yet another important aspect is the distance between the boards or pieces of wood that make up the fence – this shouldn’t exceed 20 centimeters. If it’s possible, raise a double fence – in this case, the distance between the two fences shouldn’t exceed 70 centimeters.
If the sheep are frequently left without human supervision – in an area known to be visited by bears or wolves – it’s recommended to make a 1.80 m high fence from wire netting. Of course, the posts should be sturdy and well fixed. At the top of the fence there should be a 70 cm outward bent part and at the bottom, a further 1 m outward bent part dug into the ground.
When it comes to otters, you should not forget that the animal is a good climber and a skillful digger. Fences surrounding fishponds should be of at least 3 m high, with 2 m raising above the ground. The rest (1 m) should be dug into the ground in the following way: 0.5 m should be in a normal (vertical) position, whereas the other 0.5 m should be horizontal, bent outwards from the fishpond. This way, you can prevent that otters dig under your fence and reach the ponds.
3. Fladry:
It consists of bright colored (red or orange) strips – made of some kind of textile – that are attached to a string, with which we surround the designated area. The strips are 10 cm (4 inches) wide and 50 cm (20 inches) long and they are set 50-70 cm apart, with their lower ends just touching the ground. This method is used against wolves . Originally, it was used in wolf hunts in Eastern Europe and Russia.
It is effective only against wolves, which are afraid of it and don’t cross the line (it’s totally ineffective against ungulates, for example). If wolves get used to it, the method loses its effectiveness, so it’s not recommended to constantly use it for a longer period of time. After using it, it’s recommended to collect it during daytime.
Nevertheless, it’s very effective when using it for a shorter period of time: when the traditional fence in not yet set around the shepherd camp, when the sheep cover greater distances while grazing, during occasional night time grazing, and so on. 
It can be applied when wolves often enter the sheepfold – it must be placed outside the traditional (conventional) fence. When placed on top of a traditional fence, it reduces the chances of wolves jumping over the fence. A fladry mounted around a shepherd camp preserves its effectiveness for a longer time if wolves do not have the opportunity to closely inspect it. Of course, this is true only if there is a permanent presence of shepherds and dogs.
The effectiveness of the fladry: experiments conducted in Idaho ( United States of America ) showed that wolves have entered for the first time a 400 ha area (permanently surrounded with fladry) only after 61 days. In Alberta ( Canada ) a 25 ha area was surrounded using fladry. In 60 days, wolves have approached the fladry for 23 times before crossing it for the first time.
4. Using sheep dogs:
It is the oldest method used to guard livestock. The fact that it persisted until our days speaks for itself about the effectiveness of the method, used against bears, wolves and otters alike.
Nevertheless, the method has its deficiencies: few shepherds have well trained dogs (they have confirmed this by themselves on numerous occasions). For example, during wolf attacks, dogs often try to chase the wolves, leaving the livestock unprotected, whereas in the case of bears, in many cases dogs warn about the approaching predator only when it’s too late.
What must be achieved is that dogs always stay beside the sheep flock, even in rainy, misty or cold weather. More, in these cases shepherds must also be alert, since dogs instinctively try to seek shelter. Experience shows that the best sheep dogs are those which are raised from their birth along the sheep, but even their training must be emphasized. Usually, it’s not the pure races that become the best sheep dogs.
In the case of otters, if there is no possibility to let the dogs run loose around the fishponds, it’s recommended that they are tied to running chains, which confer them as much movement space as possible. This is especially true if we know the trails regularly used by otters to approach the lakes, ponds.
5. Frightening methods:
As a completion to the above said, there are several frightening methods that can also be used against carnivores: fire, petards (fired in the evening, during the night and at dawn). These methods can rather be used for prevention purposes. Used in excess, they can loose their effectiveness (for instance, in the case of bears).
Also, you can mount different types of electric or mechanic devices, that warn about the approaching predator. One of the simplest and cheapest solutions is to use a string which has bells attached to it – it can be used to warn especially about approaching bears (wolves jump over the string, if they notice it in time). In the case of otters, you can hang pieces of used clothing on known otter trails – it should keep them away for a while.
Another frequently used method is to tie bells (cowbells) to the sheep’s neck, which warn the shepherds and the dogs if the sheep are scarred. Often, it’s too late.
It’s relatively cheap to construct (even by yourself) systems that turn on a siren or a lamp when a wire is touched or torn.
6. There are also methods that can only be used by competent authorities. One example is to use rubber or plastic bullets to gradually deter carnivores. Another method is taste aversion, when chemicals (for example, lithium-chloride) are used treat a carcass. The predator that feeds from that carcass will associate his illness with that kind of meat and not eat it again.
At last, a non-lethal method is the trapping and relocating of the carnivore. In the United States , bears trapped for this reason –before their release – were conditioned to fear humans.
